INTERVIEW BY Giulia Juliet Belkin
PHOTOGRAPHY by Mirta de Gisbert, Zach Boysjoli
It isn’t a Mother’s Day without a little bling, and in 2020, when all of us most likely will be celebrating at home, diamonds will matter even more. Throughout the year, trends filtered in and out, but the demand for diamond, platinum, and gold never died down. Today when fashion influencers across the world are locked down at home, sporting relaxed looks, the bling is still present, because even pajamas go fabulous with a bling, because diamonds are indeed, a girl’s best friends.
But how to choose your diamond if you’re not a specialist or simply don’t know what she’ll like the most. I chatted about gemology with an expert, Mirta de Gisbert, whose Instagram account I have been eyeing for some time now. It’s a real eye candy, especially for ladies.
Giulia: For those who may not know what a gemologist is, what is it and how did you become one?
Mirta: A gemologist is someone who is certified to identify and grade both diamonds and colored stones. There are different schools where you can get certified, but I personally chose the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) because they are the standard when it comes to diamond grading. After all, they created the 4Cs, so what better way to learn than straight from the source. The graduate gemology (G.G) degree is divided into diamonds and colored stones. Additionally, I also got my graduate pearls diploma and advanced jewelry professional (AJP) diploma.
Giulia: Who inspired you?
Mirta: I found the inspiration within myself but with the help and support of my parents. In 2009, when I told them I wanted to discover what I wanted to do, they could not have been more supportive. I quit my job in Washington, D.C., moved to London and took the next steps to discover my passion - it was the best decision I’ve ever made. You only live once and I firmly believe that if you’re able to, you should allow yourself to find what makes you happy. I am very aware of how incredibly fortunate I was to be able to do this and I still pinch myself to this day.
Giulia: Where did you study for Gemology?
Mirta: At the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in London.
Giulia: Where are you from originally?
Mirta: I’m from Spain. I was born in Madrid, but my family is from the Basque Country. When I was seven, we moved to Joburg and lived there for 21 years! Since South Africa, I’ve lived in Washington, D.C. (I got my B.S. at Georgetown University), London, San Francisco and now New York.
Giulia: Why do you think it's important to consult with a gemologist when buying a diamond?
Mirta: You get the peace of mind that you are working with someone who has the credentials to evaluate and grade a diamond. That being said, I have also learned a great deal from dealers, jewelers and sales professionals, who didn’t have their gemology degree but learned by being on the job.
Giulia: What do you like best about your job?
Mirta: There are so many things but the top four would be:
Creating pieces of jewelry because they become storytelling/memory vessels.
Speaking with a client who wants to propose or buy a surprise gift for their significant other and the love for their partner is palpable. My heart simply melts.
I love having my clients trust me to push them outside of their comfort zones to find styles of jewelry that really resonate with them.
Being a female founder and meeting other badass female founders.
Giulia: For everyday buyers who don't have professional training, what are some simple things they can look for to help distinguish high-quality Diamonds from lower-quality ones when they are out shopping for jewelry?
Mirta:
Are there any face up eye-visible inclusions?
Check the diamond’s shape and proportions to ensure the stone is symmetrical and meets the ideal proportions relative to the shape.
Ask for a certificate – in terms of certification, I only work with GIA. There are lots of other labs but the one I trust is the GIA.
Move the stone or the piece of jewelry under the light to check that it has life – in technical terms, check its fire, brilliance and scintillation (sparkle).
If in doubt, reach out to me or someone like me who can provide you with professional objective advice.
Giulia: Diamonds are always in style, but what are some other stones you see becoming popular in the jewelry industry?
Mirta: Different colored sapphires, emeralds, opals and pearls. Rubies have been pretty quiet but I think they are going to make a comeback. The use of color is becoming more and more popular which I love!
Giulia: What's a typical day like in Mirta's life?
Mirta: Every day is different, but I really like and need a morning routine – it grounds me. On a “perfect” day, I wake up at 5:45, journal, meditate, get a workout in and get ready for the day. I take Mosi, my Frenchie, on a nice walk, and prepare my breakfast (it varies from ‘pan con tomate’ to an egg white omelet and some veggies). I’m Basque which means I’m a big foodie and breakfast happens to be my favorite meal! Regardless of whether I get all that done, I’m always on my computer by 8:30. I usually finish by 18h or 18h30 but I’ll be answering emails or texts from my jewelers or clients in the evening. Some days I put my phone away at 18h30 and don’t look at it until the next morning and other days, I’m looking at it until I go to sleep!
Giulia: Is Mosi a fan of diamonds and precious stones?
Mirta: Most definitely! Whenever I show him a ring, if it has diamonds or sapphires, he tends to look at it as if it’s a treat for him! What can I say, he takes after me!
Giulia: As an expert in the field, what sorts of luxury jewelry are you most taken by these days, and why?
Mirta: I love anything with a baroque pearl or a star sapphire! I also absolutely love emeralds. I have noticed myself being drawn to opal pieces as of late.
Giulia: Any exciting new jewelry trends you predict for the near future?
Mirta: Gypsy rings and Toi et Moi rings have made a very big comeback and people are becoming more receptive to pearls as jewelry designers make them more modern through their designs. Using eternity bands as engagement rings is also trending.
Giulia: Are diamonds a Girl's Best friend?
Mirta: I would say first, get to know yourself, become best friends with yourself and THEN, treat yourself to some diamonds and jewelry!
Giulia: Why did you decide to launch your own jewelry consulting company?
Mirta: I launched my jewelry consulting company to shift perception that purchasing jewelry is overwhelming and always requires a significant investment. As a gemologist, curator and stylist, my mission is to excite and empower my clients by showing them how to maximize the 4Cs to get the best quality and value as well as discover new jewelry designers and styles. On bridal and bespoke pieces, I source the stones and create the pieces at close to wholesale prices. Through the intrinsic storytelling power of jewelry, my vision is to create connections, bring joy and uplift my clients with pieces that truly resonate with them.
Giulia: How is Coronavirus affecting you personally?
Mirta: First and foremost, seeing my family. I was meant to fly home to France for the weekend of March 29 to be with my dad and brother because it marked two years since my mom had passed away and I had to cancel my trip. I was also meant to go to London to visit my brother this weekend and I had to cancel that too. Not knowing when I’ll next be able to see my dad and brother is not a great feeling but I’m taking it day by day and thankful they are safe.
Giulia: Does it have any effect on your job or vice versa?
Mirta: Absolutely. Projects have been less frequent but in full transparency, given the current situation, I haven’t been pushing for them and instead only focused on connecting (with family, friends, clients, creating new friends on Instagram) and providing support to those who want to connect over a shared love of jewelry.
I created the #MyJewelsMyWay challenge on Instagram to connect over our love of jewelry, especially while we are practicing social distancing. I thought it would be fun for folks to go through their jewelry, even the pieces they haven’t worn in some time, and find different ways to wear them. Jewelry is incredibly personal and since it has the power to bring joy, empower and uplift us - why not use it to connect us! I have also been offering complimentary phone/FaceTime consultations where we chat about all things jewelry from people asking me jewelry questions to sharing their favorite pieces to seeking advice for their jewelry business. Feeling connected is more important than ever and I have been wanting to find ways to keep ourselves entertained and bond.
Giulia: Mother's Day is around the corner but since all of us are on lockdown, shopping for a gift becomes a challenge. Especially when it comes to diamonds or precious stones. This is where I feel like your services would be very handy for so many of us. Can you please tell us how your expertise can help in this uneasy time?
Mirta: Happy to! I think now more than ever, is the perfect time to explore different styles and designers and hone in on your jewelry style. As such, I would recommend if you’re a mom who wants to treat herself or you have a mom in your life you want to spoil, give the gift of working with your own personal jewelry consultant! As a GIA certified jewelry consultant, I help discover or enhance your/her own personal jewelry style. Since I am not a store and don’t hold any stock or inventory, my recommendations are objective, completely prioritizing the clients’ needs and providing me access to jewelry designers on a global scale. The first step is booking a complimentary phone/FaceTime consultation with me, where I get to learn more about the client through a detailed intake questionnaire. In terms of working together I can do one or all of the following:
1. Style the client’s current jewelry pieces.
2. Identify gaps in the current jewelry collection
3. Curate a tailored selection of jewelry pieces across a variety of styles and price points.
4. For those looking to create your own bespoke piece, we can have the intake consultation and once the world returns to normalcy and jewelers are back at their benches, we can source the perfect stones and create your piece!
Giulia: On that note, can you elaborate more on your services?
Mirta: Of course! I work on all aspects of jewelry from bridal to bespoke to fashion to fine and with all budgets and all locations. We can work together on a special projects basis and/or via my subscription service.
Special projects:
This includes working with me to create your bridal or bespoke piece at close to wholesale pricing.
Similar to a stylist, we can work on an ongoing basis to source and style your jewelry, seasonally or for special events.
Subscription service:
Through my annual subscription service, I provide a quarterly delivery of jewelry recommendations customized to the season and/or special occasion, specified by the client (birthday, anniversary, Christmas, Valentine’s Day, etc.). Men particularly love the subscription service because it ensures they never forget an important date and a tailored gift idea is sent their way, well in advance of said important dates!
Giulia: Where can our readers follow you online?
Mirta: On Instagram (@mirtadegisbert) and my website (www.mirtadegisbert.com).
