Dior has set its designs in motion for Pre-Fall 2023 in Mumbai, alongside the iconic Gateway of India landmark. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has a deep-rooted affinity for the city, where she has maintained a working friendship with Karishma Swali for over 20 years. Swali is the director of Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft, a place of exchange, study and emancipation for many women in the region. Through next season’s clothes, Chiuri aims to champion India’s rich history and spotlight the country’s influence on fashion at large.
“I was able to learn so much about the artisanal embroidery techniques, which are still found in each and every Indian region, and the unique ability of the Chanakya Atelier to put them in dialogue with the fashion industry, through this relationship with Chanakya,” said Chiuri.
The collection draws inspiration from Dior's archives, specifically from April 1962, when then-creative director Marc Bohan traveled to India, notably to Mumbai and Delhi, to initiate conversations between France and India. Bohan's international escapades marked a new era for Dior, one that invited younger customers and a more modern design approach into the Maison.
To highlight Marc Bohan's pioneering work and Karishma Swali's influence, Chiuri has chosen a distinct kaleidoscopic color palette that emphasizes timeless design codes. The collection includes a color-block sequence of silk fabrics in shades of green, yellow, pink, and purple, used in upscale evening coats, sari-inspired straight skirts, and traditional Indian attire. By merging heritage and fashion histories, the silk-infused lineup also features shiny pants, boleros, jackets, and tops.
Embroidery plays a crucial role in Dior's appreciation of India's cartography. Across the collection, the artistic design technique highlights the intrinsic skill sets offered by the Chanakya School of Craft, with the ultimate aim of empowering women's creativity directly on the female form. Silver sequins, strass, decorative motifs, and toile de Jouy fabric blend together harmoniously to convey Chuiri's creative dialogue. As per the collection notes, this dialogue "perpetuates precious illustrations of exceptional savoir-faire, confirming the unfailing bond between France and India."
Explore Dior's Pre-Fall 2023 collection in the gallery above.
Known for his signature lace-up leather brief, the former Balmain embellishment expert launched his label in 2017 and has captured industry attention for his exploration of sex and sexuality through clothing.