In 1947 Christian Dior designed the “New Look,” which emphasized the “feminine” silhouette. In 1960 Yves Saint Laurent, as artistic director of the House of Dior at the time, designed the first couture biker jacket. It was fashion that began the new trend.
There is plenty of talk in the world of fashion about millennials. Who are the millennials? It is people born between 1977 and 2000, who make 25% of US population, they make up 21% of consumer discretionary purchases, which is estimated to be over a trillion dollars in direct buying power and a huge influence on older generations, 1 in 4 millenials are parents today and 50% of millennials love to support a cause with the purchase.
Everyone aims for this audience, but it only creates a dilemma fordesigners and results in less attractive collection as we witnessed at Maria Chiuri's Spring 2018 collection. One year ago, Maria Grazia Chiuri made her debut as Dior's womenswear artistic director, claiming her space in the industry with the Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie quote: "We should all be feminists." Remember that? Now, she's continued the conversation by asking: "Why have there been no great women artists?" Chiuri was inspired by the lack thereof female artist. French-American sculptor, painter, and filmmaker Niki de Saint Phalle was one of the artist who inspired Chiuri with her style. References to Bohan (who ran Dior from 1958-1960) were also present via little dresses and jumpsuits, sometimes teamed with full skirts opening at the front. Chiuri directed the attention at women in her Spring 2018 Dior collection filled with jeans, tulle skirts over jeans, sparkles, female quotes. Yes, Chiuri has made her mark as the first female artistic director of Dior.Yes, the powerful t-shirt (not to mention super expensive) from last season, took over the street style, but everything should be done in moderation.
The point is there is a place for everyone. But couture should not attempt something that they are not known for. There are collections today that speak to millenials clearer, better and with the right price tag. Thoughts?
Text: Juliet Belkin
Karl imagines plastic is fantastic for Spring 2018. Do you agree?