FASHION HISTORY: FASHION FROM THE PAST
Around 1918 and especially after the First World War, women began to wear more comfortable and lighter clothing to go to the beach. A two-piece set (or jumpsuit) with baggy pants that became the perfect outfit to wear on the seaside, at a time when women were not wearing pants. Known as beach pajamas, this set became very fashionable in the 1920s among upper-class women who spent beach vacations and was booming during the 1930s. Even Juan-Les-Pins beach in the Côte d'Azur was popularly known as "Pajamapolis", as the beach pajamas were the most used clothing by its visitors.
Coco Chanel -pioneer in wearing pants on the beach- and Elsa Schiaparelli were some designers who created this type of outfit.
A group of women wearing beach pajamas with a wider neckline at the back (1934).
Actresses Frances Dee, Adrienne Ames and Judith Wood wearing beach pajamas in the early 1930s.
Models Alden Gay, Marion Morehouse and Miss Collier wearing chiffon dresses and hats, photographed by Edward Steichen for vogue, 1927.
On April 20, 1879, Paul Poiret, called 'Le Magnifique'. was born. He dominated the European fashion of the early twentieth century, made draped dresses its most representative element and was one of the pioneers in removing the corset.
Influenced by oriental fashion, he popularized kimonos, caftans, tunics, and turbans. He created the harem pants, the hobble skirt and the lampshade tunic. He loved color and dressed women in rich, vibrant tones.
He held lavish parties that gave him a lot of publicity, although they ruined him, and he knew how to get the most out of his brand creating perfumes, furniture, textiles and other household items.
His muse was his wife, Denise Boulet, although they ended up divorcing after 23 years together.
But, despite his enormous international success, he died in misery and totally forgotten.
Model wearing a black Givenchy linen romper with a bow at the waist, a pink and white organza jacket and a black straw hat. Photo by Bert Stern, 1969.
On May 12, 1907 Katharine Hepburn was born. Named the biggest female star in Hollywood history, she received four Academy Awards for Best Actress. Her style was casual and effortless, she publicly preferred to wear wide legged pants, shirts and suits because she put comfort before glamor. She played independent women and personified the modern and emancipated woman.
Katharine Hepburn in a scene from the film 'The Philadelphia Story', 1940.
Two models -on the left is Mrs. Francis A. Wyman- photographed by Edward Steichen for Vogue, 1932.
Model Fiona Campbell-Walter in Dior photographed by Henry Clarke, 1951.
On May 6, 1992, Marlene Dietrich died. Actress, singer, and icon of sexual freedom. She imposed feminine pants and adopted masculine garments (ties, shirts, hats) that she combined with glamorous hairstyles and makeup to create her daring and sophisticated style.
Marlene Dietrich on board the ocean liner Europe, 1933.
Aline Griffith wearing a full length embroidered coat by Pedro Rodríguez , photographed by Henry Clarke for Vogue, 1963.
Aline Griffith left her job as a model to become a spy for the CIA's predecessor Office of Strategic Services (OSS). She was sent to Spain, where she would meet Luis de Figueroa, count of Quintanilla and later III count of Romanones. As part of the Spanish nobility, she was well known for her lavish parties attended by world celebrities such as Ronald and Nancy Reagan, Salvador Dalí, Ava Gardner, Rainier of Monaco and Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Mel Ferrer, Imelda Marcos, the Dukes of Windsor, Jackie Kennedy, among many others.
Christy Turlington, Nadja Auermann, Cindy Crawford, Stephanie Seymour and Claudia Schiffer for Gianni Versace, photographed by Richard Avedon, 1994.
On April 24, 1986, Wallis Simpson passed away.
In 1933 she met David, the Prince of Wales, who fell in love with her and would abdicate in 1936, after less than a year on the throne as Edward VIII to marry her.
Wallis used fashion to differentiate herself from the British royal family, her style was unique, glamorous and daring. And she had a reserved seat in the front row of the Givenchy, Schiaparelli, Dior and Mainbocher shows.
Wallis Simpson with the lobster dress designed by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí, photographed by Cecil Beaton for Vogue, 1937.